Author: Evan Slater
Publisher: Chronicle Books
ISBN: 1452105936
Size: 73.18 MB
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Surf journalist team Evan Slater and Peter Taras capture the essence of waves and the swells that produce them in this breathtaking collection of wave photography.


Author: エヴァンスレーター
ISBN: 9784756247629
Size: 31.50 MB
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北太平洋、南インド洋、南太平洋、大西洋の海域別に、嵐の中から海岸まで、うねりがたどる道のりを気象現象とともに追った「波」の写真集。外洋の大波から浜辺に打ち寄せる ...

The Encyclopedia Of Surfing

Author: Matt Warshaw
Publisher: Houghton Mifflin Harcourt
ISBN: 9780156032513
Size: 27.16 MB
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Interest in big-wave surfing would continue to grow in the years ahead. See also
big-wave surfing. Swell of 2001 Large, orderly, sun-drenched winter weekend
swell along the east coast of Australia, running from July 6 to 8, 2001, the result of
a nearly undetected gale between New Zealand and New Caledonia. While the
Australian Bureau of Meteorology had forecast modest three-foot waves for
Friday, July 6, surfers from Queensland's Gold Coast to southern New South
Wales woke ...

Beaches Of The Tasmanian Coast And Islands

Author: Andrew D. Short
Publisher: Sydney University Press
ISBN: 1920898123
Size: 33.12 MB
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Because waves are dependent on the prevailing winds they are closely
correlated with the wind systems and range from high waves during westerly and
northerly gales, to calms when winds are light or offshore. Figure 1.18 Monthly
mean wave period for Cape Sorell) and Storm Bay (lower Hs) and period. East
Coast The east coast receives waves from two major sources. First are the
refracted westerly swell waves, which can arrive year round, but substantially
reduced in height as ...

West Beach Resort Development Honouliuli Oahu

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In the absence bf all wave activity for periods longer than 6 hours the flushing
would be limited to tidal exchange, i.e. a 1/4 to 1/2 times volume flushing rate.
Thus, importance is placed upon comprehensively knowing the low end of the
wave spectrum at the site coastline. Figures and Tables included show a
summary of historical wave data and information applicable to the site coastline.
The historical results indicate that 341 days of the year waves and swell greater
than one foot in ...

Methods For Analysing Wind Wave And Swell Data To Estimate On An Annual Basis The Number Of Days And The Maximum Duration Of Periods During Which Port And Ship Operations Will Be Impeded By These Elements

Publisher: PIANC
Size: 49.92 MB
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List of symbols Ep = Encounter probability F(H'S} = Mean frequency per year of
storms of level H's = 8760f(H's} {year— 1) f(h's) = Mean frequency per hour of
upcrossings of the level H's (hi— 1) Hs = Significant wave height {mean wave
height of the highest one-third of the waves (m) Hc = Parameter of scale in the
Weibull distribution of Hs (see Fig. 11) (m) H0 = Parameter in the Weibull
distribution of Hs (lower limit of wave height) (m) Y = Parameter of shape in the
Weibull distribution ...

Extreme Waves

Author: Craig B. Smith
Publisher: National Academies Press
ISBN: 9780309100625
Size: 10.37 MB
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In these cases there is no standard pattern to wave crests and troughs, and this
also can be called a “confused sea.” Swell eventually sorts itself out into one
regular pattern of waves, trough following crest in an endless roll across the open
ocean until land is reached. In this process, swell loses very ... certain years
stand out as years of giant swells in the Pacific—1953, 1969, 1983, and 2001, for
example.1 Of these, the swell of 1969 is perhaps the most notable. In late
November 1969, ...

Western Lng Project Liquefaction Terminal At Nikiski Ak Receiving Terminal At Point Conception Ca

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southwest swell. The highest west-southwest swell occurred during a February
storm and had a significant height of ll feet with a period of 15 seconds. The most
common significant wave periods were 6 to 8 seconds in the case of southeast
seas, 13 to 15 seconds for westerly swell, and 15 to 17 seconds for southerly
swell. The latter ... 081 estimates for lOO-year waves indicate that for
northwesters, sea wave heights would not exceed 6 feet and swells would be in
the 27-foot range.

Kwajalein Atoll Causeway Project Marshall Islands Usa Permit Application Discharge Of Fill Material

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North Pacific swell is produced by severe winter storms in the Aleutian area of the
north Pacific ocean and by midlatitude low pressure areas. North swell may occur
throughout the year but is largest and most frequent during the winter months of
October through March. No quantitative data is available regarding the
characteristics and frequency of South and North Pacific swell in Kwajalein. It is
reasonable, however, to assume that the characteristics of these waves are
similar to those ...

Maritime Technology And Engineering Iii

Author: Carlos Guedes Soares
Publisher: CRC Press
ISBN: 1315342650
Size: 71.34 MB
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In Sines the number of mutipeaked spectra in the deepest point (P6–412 m) is
slightly lower than the shallowest point (P5–35 m). The directional spectra
processed for each location for the period of 12 years, were classified in five
classes of climatic wave spectra (wind waves – I, swell – II, two swells – III, wind
waves and one swell – IV, complex multipeaked spectrum – V). At Leixões (P1),
5.2% are wind waves (I), 24.4% are decaying waves, or swell (II), 35.7% are two
swell systems of ...